Claudia Rodriguez-Biezunski turned her skills as a seamstress and tailor into creating one-of-a-kind wearable art and textile pieces. Her designs are inspired by her first-generation Mexican-American upbringing and the DIY punk scene.
How did you get started designing clothes? Always an artist, or was there a “moment”?
I have always been a very creative person, but only recently have I had the courage to label myself as an “artist”.
For many years I worked as a seamstress, then a tailor, then a costume creator, and then a designer, and now finally, when people ask me what I am, I tell them that I am an artist. It took me a long time to get here, but I feel that it was always inside of me, but I was too afraid to say out loud.
I never went to fashion school, and I couldn’t afford to go to design college or art school, so for a long time, I did not think I was worthy enough to receive the title of “artist”. During the recent pandemic, something within me switched, and I stopped tailoring other people’s clothes and creating their Comic-Con costumes, and I solely focused on creating my own clothing designs and textile art pieces.
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It was the best decision I ever made. These last five years have been the happiest and most fulfilling years of my life, and I am never looking back.
Where do you find your inspiration for your designs?
I draw a lot of inspiration from my first generation Mexican-American upbringing; being raised by two, very religious, immigrant parents in the San Fernando Valley. I am also heavily inspired by the DIY punk scene and the music that dominated my teenage years living in LA. It awakened a rebellious spirit within me that still exists today.
Lastly, I am also inspired by words or phrases that used to frighten me or make me feel insecure; now, I like to flip these same phrases and proudly incorporate them into my designs as a way of reversing their stigma.
Do you plan your work out ahead of time, or do you just dive in with your materials and start playing?
Most of the time, I just walk into my sewing studio, pull out a bunch of different clothing, fabrics and patches, push play on the stereo, and begin creating. It is all pure instinct and childlike in a way, and it makes me feel so good and so fulfilled creatively.
Other times, when I am creating for an art show or commission, I begin pre-planning and sketching out my designs first, and I choose specific textiles based on intention and I spend a lot of time thinking about how I want the final piece to look and feel before I even step into the sewing studio.
Describe your creative space.
My sewing studio, Sew Loka, is where I design and create all of my clothing and textile art pieces.
I have one large cutting table in the middle of the room, surrounded by a few of my favorite industrial sewing machines, an embroidery machine, and a wall of recycled and vintage fabrics that I have collected throughout the years. I don’t need much, and I like to keep it simple.
There is always music playing in my creative space, and it’s usually turned up very loud when I am in the process of cutting and sewing. I also love to look at art while I am creating, so you will find murals and paintings covering every inch of the space. It is truly my happy place, where I still feel like I am eight years old, creating clothing for my dolls.
What are the indispensable tools and materials in your studio? How do they improve your work?
One of the most indispensable, but underrated, tools in my sewing studio is my iron. A lot of people laugh when I tell them how much I love my iron, but I am very serious. It is an essential tool, and it makes any garment or creation look a million times better.
I also love my embroidery machine, and use it everyday to create patches for my clothing. Mastering the embroidery machine has helped me to create a defined and recognizable style for my clothing brand.
Scraps. Saver? Or be done with them?
I save all of my fabric scraps. My husband sometimes calls me a “hoarder” but I tell him that it’s not considered hoarding if you actually use them, and I use them all.
The most fun and creative way that I use my scraps, is when I create square fabric patches that I sew onto recycled jackets, flannels, sweaters and tees. Adding a few fun patches to a bland, blank tee can transform something basic into something beautiful.
How often do you start a new project? Do you work actively on more than one project at a time?
I am constantly creating new projects, every single day, because I have to make sure my clothing racks are filled and my website is stocked; it never ends, but I am grateful for this life.
I remember a time when I wasn’t busy and no one was interested in my work, and that was very frustrating for me, so I never stress about being too busy or overworked. I am always working on three or four different projects at a time, starting one, stopping for a bit and going to another, and then coming back to finish both at the same time.
If I ever feel that a project is stressing me out, I just put it away and start working on something else, and come back to it the next day with fresh eyes.
Which part of the design process is your favorite? Which part is a challenge for you?
The cutting and sewing, and overall construction of the piece is my favorite part of the design process. I have always loved seeing things in my head and then building them with my hands.
The most challenging part of the design process for me, is the sketching of the idea; taking the vision from my head and drawing it onto a piece of paper. I never considered myself to be a painter or skilled drawer, but many commissioned pieces require a visual sketch before the project can be approved, so I have forced myself to keep trying and to keep getting better at this part of the process. Through constant repetition, my drawing skills are slowly starting to improve.
How mindful are you of your fabric footprint? Where do you find the materials for your designs?
I am very mindful of my fabric footprint. When I originally started Sew Loka in 2013, I made a promise to myself that I would only use recycled, reclaimed, and repurposed fabrics to create all of my clothing designs.
Textile waste is our number two pollutant, and I did not want to create a clothing brand that added more waste into the world. Most of the fabrics and materials I use are donated to us, by local design studios, museums and upholstery warehouses. I also love to find fabric gems while visiting local thrift stores and estate sales.
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received on your creative journey?
“Don’t be afraid to challenge your audience” is a piece of advice that has always resonated with me throughout the years.
I used to create designs with a specific audience in mind, but I was always disappointed when they did not respond in the way that I had predicted. It took me a long time to realize that people are complicated, and it is almost impossible to guess what they want, because in the end, they might not even be exactly sure what they want.
When I started to create for myself, and stopped caring about the audience’s reaction to my work, my designs really started to click with people. In that moment, I realized that authenticity matters more than anything else, and if I stayed true to myself, believed in myself, and loved myself, everything else would fall into place.
Where can people see your work?
My sewing studio in Barrio Logan is always open to the public and I invite people to cruise by anytime to see what I am currently working on and to chat about sewing and clothing and design.
I love having an open studio, because I enjoy talking with people, hearing their stories and connecting with them on a deeper level. Their stories inspire me and inspire my future projects.
I have four start to finish jackets that are currently on display at the San Diego International Airport as part of their Espacios & Lines exhibit for World Design Capital 2024, and I am also in the process of creating ten brand new clothing art pieces for the Visions Museum of Textile Art in San Diego, that will be showcased in the very beginning of Spring 2025.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAzvFGp3nfk
Sewing is Life: Sew Loka Brings Chicana Style to Streetwear | Weekly Arts | KCET
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZmhGd5F_2I
Sew Loka “Sewing is Life” 2022 sustainable street wear designed & created in Barrio Logan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7sxkH5pDw0&t=22s
Chicana fashion designer sewing together a beautiful life in Barrio Logan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0TYSk76mHE&t=47s
The Art of San Diego’s Chicano Culture
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MoVScqav0c&t=22s
Sew Loka “You Reap What You Sew” Fashion Show Intro Video
https://sandiegomagazine.com/features/sew-loka-sustainable-streetwear/
The Chicana Designer Turning the Old Into New
https://www.cbs8.com/article/news/local/outreach/earth8/sew-loka-barrio-logan-sustainable-upcycle-fashion/509-b83a0440-369e-4acf-bed9-2a0b2722af2b
We mainly use recycled reused reclaimed fabrics’ | Sew Loka in Barrio Logan
Interview posted December 2024
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