Spotlight: Anne Fujiwara, Hawaiian Quilter, Instructor and Designer

Anne Fujiwara was captivated by traditional Hawaiian quilts and had a strong desire to make one herself. She now designs traditional Hawaiian quilts and teaches others the techniques and how to tell stories with these handmade quilts.

How did you get started designing Hawaiian quilts? Always an artist, or was there a “moment”?

A long time ago, I was deeply captivated by the traditional Hawaiian quilts at the Hana Maui Hotel. The hotel used Hawaiian quilt bedspreads for their guests. It was there that I first discovered Hawaiian quilts and felt a strong desire to make one myself. I had already been a patchwork quilter since high school, having spent my senior year as a foreign exchange student in Ohio. However, the unique designs and vibrant colors of Hawaiian quilts truly caught my eye and left a lasting impression.

When was the first time that you remember realizing that you are a creative person? 

It probably started in elementary school. My mother was a seamstress and used to sew my dresses when I was little. I wasn’t allowed to use her sewing machine because it seemed too difficult to handle. So instead, I joined the craft club at school, where I learned how to crochet and weave.

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What inspires you to create?

The creative process itself and the finished product inspire me.

Tell us more about the history of Hawaiian quilting.

Hawaiian quilts are the traditional quilts of Hawaii.

The major differences between Hawaiian quilts and American quilts are: Hawaiian quilts typically use only two solid colors, their designs are symmetrical, and around the design, there is a unique quilting style called “echo quilting.” Echo quilting consists of curved lines that ripple outward from the center like water ripples.

In ancient times, there was no fabric in Hawaii. It is said that sewing and Western clothing were introduced to the Hawaiian people by the wives of missionaries who came from Europe and America in the 1820s.

Therefore, the “patchwork” method commonly used in American quilts—piecing together many small bits of fabric—did not exist in Hawaii. Instead, it is believed that the tradition of Hawaiian quilting began when people spread out a large sheet of cloth and used the shadow of a large leaf as inspiration for their quilt motifs.

There are no written records that clearly explain the history of Hawaiian quilts, but it is believed that, unlike patchwork, large pieces of fabric were cut into patterns and then placed onto a large background fabric, resulting in the bold, striking designs we see today.
Also, Hawaiian quilt designs are characteristically symmetric—identical on the top, bottom, left, and right.

Typically, a motif the size of 1/8 or 1/4 of the full fabric is used. The fabric is folded into 1/8 or 1/4 size, then cut like paper-cutting art (kirie) while folded. When unfolded, the symmetrical design is laid onto the large background fabric. The motif is then pinned in place, basted, and sewn onto the background fabric with a technique called “appliqué,” using invisible stitches.

After the appliqué is finished, quilt batting (the soft filling) and a backing fabric are layered together with the top fabric, and the three layers are stitched together. This process is called “quilting,” and it creates a textured, three-dimensional effect on the fabric.

Traditional Hawaiian quilts use two solid colors of 100% cotton fabric. Although polyester-cotton blends are sometimes used, 100% cotton is better for both appliqué and quilting, making the process smoother and the finished texture softer. It’s highly recommended to use high-quality cotton fabric, not cheap materials. My “Aunties” (teachers) always taught me: “Since you’re spending so much time making a Hawaiian quilt, never use cheap materials!”

What is the difference between a genuine Hawaiian quilt and a Hawaiian-style quilt?

In traditional Hawaiian quilting, every stitch is made by hand. Both the appliqué and the quilting are carefully sewn, one stitch at a time. Today, you may come across quilts made with sewing machines or using printed or tie-dyed fabrics, but these are not considered traditional Hawaiian quilts—they are better described as “Hawaiian-style quilts. 

“Originally, Hawaiian quilts were created at home and passed down through generations like family heirlooms. There is even a theory that, in the past, when a quilt-maker passed away, their quilt would be buried with them. However, if there was a written will designating someone to inherit the quilt, the quilt would be preserved and passed on. Since a quilt is said to hold the spirit (mana, in Hawaiian) of its creator, it makes sense that they would be treated with such reverence.

Passing quilts from grandmother to mother, from mother to daughter, is a beautiful Hawaiian tradition. Because of this, genuine Hawaiian quilts are not typically sold in stores as souvenirs.

Do you have a dedicated space for creating? If so, what does it look like?

I used to own a store that was dedicated to Hawaiian quilts, but I no longer have it.  Now, my workspace could be my living room or my office—wherever I create my Hawaiian quilts or design new patterns. Hawaiian quilts are a part of my daily life, so my creative space can be anywhere.

What are the indispensable tools and materials in your studio? How do they improve your work?

My indispensable tools and materials are thimbles, hoops, scissors, patterns, needles, and fabrics. Having high-quality thimbles and needles makes quilting much more enjoyable and helps achieve more consistent stitches. Good scissors make a big difference when cutting through eight layers of fabric. Using 100% cotton fabric also greatly improves the quality and feel of the finished quilt.

How often do you start a new project? Do you work actively on more than one project at a time?

I always have many ongoing projects. Yes, I tend to work on multiple projects at once. I start a new project whenever I create a new design and want to experiment with different colors.

Can you tell us about the inspiration and process of one of your works? How does a new work come about?

In the sacred Manoa Forest on Oahu, I encountered a variety of plants. As I ventured deeper into the forest, the air felt as if it was infused with life, coming from the abundance of greenery. In 2011, I won the Grand Prize in the hand-sewing category at the Quilt Hawaii exhibition held on Oahu.

A new work typically begins when I feel inspired by something—whether it’s nature, a memory, or a feeling I want to express. I often start by sketching out ideas related to plants—everything about plants, including leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and so on. Once I have a design in mind, I carefully select different plant elements to create a unique composition.

Which part of the design process is your favorite? Which part is a challenge for you?

My favorite part of the design process is when I cut the 1/8 design and then open it up to reveal the full pattern. It’s always exciting to see how the design comes together.

As for challenges, when I start designing, maintaining the balance of the design is the most important aspect for me.

When you travel, do you create while on planes and in waiting areas? What is in your creative travel kit?

Yes, I do a lot of appliqué work while waiting in wating areas. I used to work on planes, but now there’s not enough light to do so. I keep everything in a plastic bag to prevent any potential liquid leaks from damaging my materials.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received?

The best piece of advice I’ve received is to put your mana (Mana is a Hawaiian word that refers to spiritual energy, power, or strength) into your quilts and to enjoy every single step of the process. Additionally, teaching quilting to my students also keeps me motivated and inspired.

What do you do to keep yourself motivated and interested in your work?

I stay motivated by simply continuing to work and completing my quilts. The sense of accomplishment that comes from finishing a quilt is a huge motivation for me.

If someone is interested in seeing genuine Hawaiian quilts, where would you suggest they visit?

Not many places exhibit genuine traditional Hawaiian quilts. Every other year, I display our Hawaiian quilts at the Hawaii Convention Center as part of the Honolulu Festival, which takes place on the second weekend of March. Museums in Honolulu occasionally have quilt exhibitions as well, so it’s a good idea to stay tuned for those events.

And, if someone wanted to learn more about how to make their own Hawaiian quilt, what would you suggest? 

I would suggest taking in-person lessons, as that’s the most effective way to learn traditional Hawaiian quilting. Alternatively, observing someone who is making Hawaiian quilts can also be a valuable learning experience. In addition to learning the techniques, it’s important to listen to the stories behind Hawaiian quilts, as they add depth and meaning to the craft.