Want to learn how to make a fabric bowl that holds its shape? With quilting cotton, heavy double-sided fusible interfacing, and a little sewing, you can make a sturdy bowl for your sewing room, living room, or home office. This fabric bowl has a separate inside and outside, finished with binding around the top.
You can use coordinating fabrics, show off a favorite print, or add a special touch with embroidery or decorative stitching. A finished bowl is useful for holding yarn, sewing supplies, small toys, and other everyday items.
I made this bowl using a design from Kirsten Fisher’s book Round Fabric Art Bowls. Kirsten’s book includes full-size templates and instructions for several bowl designs. I chose a basic version to try, and I’m sharing what I learned along the way.
The secret to this bowl’s structure is heavy, double-sided fusible interfacing. Wonder Clips or small binder clips help hold the thick layers in place while you sew. The process involves making the outside and inside separately, joining them, and adding binding around the rim.
Ready to make your own fabric bowl? Let’s gather the supplies and get started.
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How do you make a fabric bowl?
Fuse fabric to heavy, double-sided interfacing, cut and sew the shaped sections, join the inside and outside layers, and finish the rim with binding.
What materials do you need to make a fabric bowl?
You need quilting cotton for the outside, inside, and binding, heavy double-sided fusible interfacing, thread, a sewing machine, an iron, templates, and sewing clips.
How do you make a fabric bowl stiff enough to hold its shape?
Use heavy, double-sided fusible interfacing, such as Timtex or Pellon Peltex II, following the product’s fusing instructions. This method uses structured inside and outside layers.
Can you make a fabric bowl with scrap fabric?
Yes. Coordinating cotton scraps can be used for the interior, exterior, and decorative details, provided you have pieces large enough for the required pattern sections.
Quick start: fabric bowl sewing tutorial
- Project: Structured fabric bowl with a bound rim
- Skill level: Beginner-friendly, with careful cutting and sewing
- Prep time: About 10 minutes
- Active time: About 3 hours
- Total time: About 3 hours, 10 minutes
- Finished size: Approximately 16 inches in diameter for the bowl shown
- Main technique: Fusing fabric to heavy interfacing and sewing shaped sections
- Best fabrics: Quilting cotton
- Best uses: Yarn storage, sewing supplies, notions, small toys, and decorative home storage
Before you start: You’ll need the appropriate bowl templates from Round Fabric Art Bowls, heavy double-sided fusible interfacing, fabric for the inside and outside, and binding fabric. Follow the interfacing manufacturer’s instructions for pressing and fusing.
What you’ll learn
By following this fabric bowl tutorial, you’ll learn how to:
- Choose fabric and interfacing for a sturdy fabric bowl.
- Transfer a bowl template and its markings accurately.
- Fuse quilting cotton to heavy double-sided interfacing.
- Cut and sew shaped fabric sections to form a three-dimensional bowl.
- Match the inside and outside layers and reduce bulk at the seams.
- Attach binding around the top edge for a neat finish.
- Customize your bowl with fabric combinations, embroidery, or decorative stitching.
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How to Make a Fabric Bowl
Learn to make a fabric bowl with these step-by-step instructions.
This is a quilt project perfect for an afternoon.
Materials
- 1 sheet template plastic, OR tracing paper and cardboard such as a cereal box or manila folder
- 20 inch square of fabric for the outside of the bowl
- 1/4-yard of fabric for the inside of the bowl
- 1/4-yard of fabric for the binding
- Two (2) - 20 inch squares of heavy duty double sided fusible interfacing such as Timtex or Pelltex II
- Thread for sewing
- Required templates from Round Fabric Art Bowls
Tools
- Fine point Sharpie
- Sewing machine
- Iron
- Pressing surface
- Teflon sheet for pressing
- Rotary cutter
- Cutting mat
- Quilters ruler
- Exacto knife or seam ripper
- Wonder clips or small binder clips
Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the bowl template
Use the appropriate templates for the bowl design you're making. For the version shown here, I used Template 1 for the shaped sections and Template 2 for the center circle.
Trace the pattern onto template plastic using a fine-point permanent marker. If you don't have template plastic, trace the pattern onto paper and transfer it to sturdy cardboard.
(Sharpies don't smear on the plastic). 
Copy all pattern lines, center marks, and other alignment markings.
Mark the fabric grainline on the templates so you can keep the fabric pieces oriented consistently.
TIP: Check the templates carefully before cutting your interfacing. Accurate markings will make the shaped sections easier to assemble.
Here is the first template traced from the book.
Here are both the templates all traced off onto template plastic.
Step 2: Make the outside of the bowl
The outside begins as a flat, circular arrangement of shaped sections. You'll mark the pattern on the interfacing, fuse it to your fabric, and sew the sections together.
Draw lines across the center of a 20-inch square of heavy interfacing to find the center point. 
Position the center-circle template at that point and trace around it. 
Then, transfer all of the markings to the interfacing. Then take Template 1 and place inside each of the wedges in the center circle and trace the full wedge. NOTE: There will be gaps between the wedges.
Here is the outside of the fabric bowl pattern on the fusible web! 
Use your rotary cutter to trim off the excess fusible web on the outside of the circle made from the wedges.
Trim between the wedges.
Now we are ready to fuse this to the fabric you choose for the outside of the bowl. Fuse to the WRONG side of your fabric. CAUTION: Make sure to put down a teflon sheet or a piece of parchment paper on your ironing board first. Put the teflon sheet on your ironing board, place the 20-inch square of your outside bowl fabric on top with the wrong side facing the fusible and the right side of the fabric up. Press according to the manufacturers directions.
Trim the fabric from around the edge. 
I pressed the marked side of the fusible to the wrong side of the fabric. Sigh. So, I needed to remark the center circle. 
Next, topstitch around each of the wedges using your 1/4-inch quilters foot. This makes for a nice finish on the outside of the bowl.
Step 3: Sew the outside sections
Fold the circle in half. 
Using clips, line up the edges of the interfacing on the wedges and secure with a clip. I also put a pin the fabric so it wouldn't shift while I was sewing.
Sew right along the edge of the interfacing. I though the zipper foot might be a good tool for this. I found that the basic presser foot really was better for sewing right on the edge. 
Continue around the outside, folding the interfacing in half and sew all of the wedges together.
Trim the excess fabric to about a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
The outside of the bowl is complete.
Step 4: Make the inside of the bowl
Now, let's make the inside of the bowl. We need six (6) of Template 1 cut from the heavy weight double sided fusible interfacing. And, cut out six (6) pieces of your inside bowl fabric about 1/2-inch larger than the template on all sides. I added a straight line through the middle of the template so it was easy to keep the template straight on the fabric while cutting out.
Center the fusible interfacing on a piece of fabric. 
Using a teflon sheet, press the fabric to the interfacing just like we did before to the wrong side of the fabric.
TIP: Rotate every other wedge so that you can fit more on the ironing board at a time.
Next, start sewing the wedges together. We'll sew three together to make two halves of the inside of the bowl. It's important for the center marks to line up on the wedges. Use a pin through the edge of one marked wedge. 
Use the pin to line up the next wedge. 
Use a clip to hold the wedges in place and sew right along the edge of the interfacing. This time I used the regular presser foot and I found it easier to sew accurately.
Trim your seam allowances to 1/4-inch.
Here are the two halves of the inside of the bowl sewn together. 
Match the center points of the two halves, and the center circle lines. Clip to hold in place. 
Start sewing at one side, making sure to open the seams to reduce bulk. Sew across the inside of the bowl.
Step 5: Join the inside and outside layers
Trim the fabric from the outside edge. Now we have a finished outside of the bowl and a finished inside. Time to put them together! Line up the seams and clip to secure.
Take to your ironing board and press gently to fuse the two pieces together. I did an initial press around, and then followed the manufacturers directions for a good fuse. I tried to get into the center, but don't worry. If the sides are fused well, the center will stay together. 
Step 6: Add the binding around the rim
Now it's time to put the finishing touches on the bowl by adding the binding around the top. The directions call for cutting 3-inch strips of binding. You'll need at least 52-inches. That is two (2) strips width of fabric for most quilting cottons. If you needed two (2) strips like I did, you'll want to join them with a diagonal seam for less bulk around the edge of your bowl. To do this, place them perpindicular to each other. 
Sew diagonally from one corner to the other. 
Trim the seam allowance to 1/4-inch. Press the seam open to reduce bulk. 
Press the binding in half lengthwise. Next. trim the starting end of the binding with a 45-degree angle. 
Fold this diagonal edge in 1/4-inch and press. This will make for a nice finish on the edge of your bowl.
Take the binding with the diagonal edge and start sewing with a 1/4-inch seam allowance about 3-4 inches from the start of the binding. In other words, leave 3-4 inches unsewn.
Continue sewing the binding all around the bowl. Stop when you are a few inches from where you started. 
Cut the binding so that the end can slip into the start with the diagonal. 
Finish sewing the binding around the edge making sure the end of the binding tucks into the diagonal fold at the start. 
Fold the binding to the right side of the bowl and stitch. I hand stitched the binding. You can also machine stitch, if you prefer. Here is the finished bowl! 
Recommended Products
As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.
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Round Fabric Art Bowls: Sew Artisan Bowls with Infinite Possibilities -
Exacto Knife 3 Metal Craft Knife, Heavy Duty Hobby Knife Exacto Knife Set Number 11 Blade Precision Knife for Moroccan Decor, Cutting and Crafting -
fast2fuse HEAVY 20” x 20”: Double-Sided Fusible Stiff Interfacing -
OLFA 24" x 36" Double-Sided, Self-Healing Rotary Mat -
Omnigrid Non-Slip Quilter's Ruler, 6-½" x 6-½" -
3 Pack PTFE Teflon Sheet for Heat Press Transfer Sheet Non Stick 16 x 20" Heat Transfer Paper Reusable Heat Resistant Craft Mat -
KAI 28 mm Rotary Cutter, Other
Common mistakes when making a fabric bowl
Forgetting to transfer the pattern markings
The center circle, wedge lines, and alignment marks help you position and assemble the bowl sections. If you forget to transfer them, matching the pieces becomes harder.
How to avoid it: Check that all the pattern markings are visible before cutting or fusing the interfacing.
Fusing the interfacing on the wrong side
Some interfacing markings may become difficult to see after the fabric is fused in place.
How to avoid it: Double-check which side of the interfacing has the markings and where the fabric should sit before pressing. Use a protective pressing sheet.
Letting the fabric shift while sewing
The stiff interfacing can make it harder to keep the fabric and shaped sections aligned.
How to avoid it: Use Wonder Clips or small binder clips to hold the layers together. Match the center marks and edges before sewing.
Sewing the sections out of alignment
Small differences in alignment can affect how the bowl comes together, especially where several seams meet.
How to avoid it: Match the center points and pattern markings carefully. Sew slowly through bulky areas and check the shape as you assemble it.
Making the seams too bulky
Several layers of fabric and interfacing can create thick intersections.
How to avoid it: Trim seam allowances where the pattern allows and open the seams where possible. Avoid trimming away structural interfacing unless the instructions call for it.
Using too little support in the bottom
A bowl may feel sturdy around the sides but need more support at the base.
How to avoid it: Follow the interfacing requirements for your selected design. If you want to experiment with additional bottom support, test the modification first so the inside and outside layers still fit together.
Making the binding too tight or too loose
Uneven binding can pull the rim out of shape or leave gaps around the edge.
How to avoid it: Apply the binding evenly without stretching it. Clip as you go, and check the fit before stitching the final section closed.
Expecting the bowl to be food-safe
This decorative fabric bowl is designed for storage and display, not direct contact with food.
How to avoid it: Use the bowl for yarn, sewing notions, toys, and other dry household items rather than serving or storing food.
Tips for Making a Fabric Bowl
A few things I learned making the fabric bowl.
Wonder Clips or binder clips are really important to hold the layers together and in place. With two layers of double sided heavy weight fusible interfacing, pins just don’t work.
Add a mark on your template or pattern piece for grainline of the fabric for the pieces. This keeps the fabrics all in the same position around the inside of the bowl.
In her book, Kirsten talks about adding a second circle of interfacing inside the bottom of the bowl. I will do that next time. The bowl could use a little more support on the bottom.
How can I use my new fabric bowl?
These bowls are not intended for use with food items. I love to collect my projects in bowls to have them tidy in my living room. Here I’ve put some yarn I’m using on some projects in this bowl. This 16-inch diameter bowl is perfect for projects that have bigger and bulkier items.
Other ideas for using the fabric bowl in your home include use the bowl in your home office to gather pens, pencils, post-it notes and other small items. Use a bowl to gather small toys, like Matchbox cars. Collect hair accessories in a custom-made bowl! The ideas are endless!
Make a special one and use as a gift basket for a special occasion.
What materials do I need to make a round fabric bowl?
You’ll need fabric for the outside, inside and binding. You can use all one fabric, or three fabrics – you be the designer! This is a great project for a bundle of coordinating fat quarters that you just had to buy!
Double sided fusible heavy weight interfacing, such as Timtex or Peltex is needed to give the bowl structure. If you sew, you probably have everything else in your creative space! You’ll need thread, sewing machine, iron, ironing board or pressing station, Wonder clips or binder clips and a rotary cutter (and mat).
Do I need any special tools to make this project?
If you do much sewing, you probably have all of the tools in your creative space! You need a sewing machine, iron and pressing station, teflon sheet for pressing, rotary cutter and mat.
What is the purpose of using the interfacing in the bowl?
The interfacing gives the bowl its structure. Without it, the bowl wouldn’t stand up on its own. With this method by Kirsten, there are two layers of the heavy duty interfacing making the bowl nice and sturdy!
Can I personalize or embellish the fabric bowl?
Yes! Personalize the bowl with embroidery! Do this before fusing to the interfacing. Stitching through all of the layers after fusing would be difficult (it can be done!).
Another idea is to stitch through the fabric and interfacing when they are fused together but before they are sewn together. You can add a quilting design, use a decorative stitch on your machine or use a machine embroidery design.
Add embellishments like couching yarns, or sewing fancy ribbons to the pieces before stitching.
Use rick rack for a fun finish around the top edge of the bowl. Sew it on with a wide zigzag stitch. You also can use premade bias tape or make your own bias strips to finish off the top edge.
Frequently Asked Questions
Quilting cotton is a good choice because it is easy to cut, sew, and fuse to interfacing. Choose coordinating prints for the inside and outside, or use a favorite fabric as the focal point.
Heavy, double-sided fusible interfacing gives this bowl its structure. The construction method uses separate inside and outside layers that are fused together to create a firm shape.
You can make fabric bowls using other techniques, but this particular design relies on heavy interfacing. For a different method, try a fabric rope bowl made with clothesline and fabric strips, or a jelly roll fabric basket.
Yes. Scraps work well for the inside, outside, and decorative details, as long as they are large enough for the pattern sections. You can also combine coordinating fabrics to create a patchwork effect.
The original project estimate is about 10 minutes of preparation and 3 hours of active sewing, for approximately 3 hours and 10 minutes total. Your time will vary depending on your sewing experience and how carefully you work through the shaped sections.
Use your finished bowl to hold yarn, thread, sewing notions, pens, small toys, hair accessories, or other household items. It also makes a thoughtful handmade gift.
Yes. Add embroidery, decorative machine stitching, or other embellishments before assembling the bowl, when possible. You can also choose contrasting binding or add trim to personalize the finished rim.
Follow the care recommendations for your fabric and interfacing. Because this bowl contains heavy fusible interfacing, test a small sample before attempting to wash the finished project. For routine care, gentle surface cleaning may be the safest starting point.
This decorative fabric bowl is not intended for direct food contact. Use it to organize craft supplies and dry household items instead.
Make a fabric bowl of your own
Making a fabric bowl is a fun way to turn favorite quilting cottons into something useful for your home. Once you’ve mastered the process of fusing, shaping, and joining the layers, you can experiment with different fabric combinations and decorative finishes. Use your finished bowl to keep yarn, sewing supplies, or everyday odds and ends close at hand.
Want to try a different technique? Explore our tutorial for making a fabric rope bowl with clothesline and fabric scraps. It’s another great way to turn leftover fabric into something useful and colorful. Happy sewing!
There are many different ways to make fabric bowls. Check out our fabric rope bowl, that uses cotton clotheslines and fabric strips. And, make sure to read our interview with Kirsten!
