Foundation paper piecing (sometimes referred to as FPP) is a foundation quilting technique that uses paper to guide stitching lines for a quilt block. This is a great technique for quilters of all skill levels, including beginning quilters. There are a large variety of quilt patterns – some are even free patterns like ours below.
The outline of the quilt block and its pieces are printed or traced onto paper and those lines are used as the stitching lines. In this article you’ll learn all about how to foundation paper piece, including a free paper piecing pattern!
Fabric is also sometimes used as a base for foundation piecing which is common with crazy quilters. With fabric foundation piecing, the fabric is left in the final product. Paper foundation piecing is more popular, since it is easy to print the foundation paper pattern on a home printer.
Using this quilting technique to create quilt blocks is extremely precise and can be used for a variety of designs. The block pieces are sewn together through the paper, and when the quilt block is complete, the paper is gently torn away from the seams. It’s easy to create perfect points with a foundation paper-pieced block.
When making a quilt block with paper piecing, the fabric is sewn to the back of the printed pattern. The paper template shows the fabric placements. This is important to remember – all of your paper foundation patterns will be a mirror image of the finished block.
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Download our FREE foundation paper piecing pattern for a Wonky Square Quilt Block:

How to Make a Wonky Square Quilt Block
Learn how to foundation paper piece with these step-by-step directions and free pattern for a wonky square.
Materials
- Scraps of five different fabrics. For the center a 3-inch square is plenty, for the other colors about a 6-inch square of fabric should be plenty.
- Thread that will blend with all of the fabrics. I use a grey
- Printed paper template, see link below
Tools
- Sewing machine
- Iron or mini iron
- Pressing surface
- Pressing roller or tool, optional but helpful
- Pins or removable glue stick for fabric
- Colored pencils, optional but helpful
- Needle nose tweezers
- Fabric scissors
- Paper scissors
- Rotary cutter
- Cutting mat
- Quilters ruler
- Seam ripper
- Add-a-quarter ruler, recommended OR index card or other firm, thin material for accurate folds of the paper
- Optional: Seam roller
Instructions
- Download the FREE pattern with the button above. Print one copy of the paper template for each block in your project. I suggest using vellum paper for each block, but printer paper works, too. (See more information on vellum paper versus printer paper below.)
Also, print one copy on printer paper that we'll use as our guide.
NOTE: For these instructions, the how-to photos are from the same pattern made with four different color combinations. - Plan your fabrics for each of the sections. Using colored pencils, I like to color in the sections on the vellum paper so I remember which one goes where! If you want different colors for the blocks, color accordingly.
- Gather your fabric pieces. You'll want to cut them into manageable pieces. Take the one template that you printed on printer paper and cut it apart, coloring each section, cutting it out, and using those pieces as templates for cutting out my fabric. Once I've cut my pattern pieces apart, I sort the pieces by color.
Cut your fabric at least 1/2-inch bigger on all sides.
Here are all of my small shapes of fabrics cut out and ready to be sewn together.
Then, I like to put them in number order, with the smallest number on top. This way, when I'm ready for my next piece of fabric, I just grab the next one. Makes it super easy to make sure that I'm sewing the right piece of fabric next.
If you are comfortable with foundation paper piecing and how large of a piece of fabric you'll need for each section, feel free to cut strips of fabric that are 1-inch wider than the section, and then, as you need that fabric, just cut a piece off that will work.I found this is not as straightforward and resulted in more 'unstitching'. 🙂
- Now we are ready to get started! Take the fabric intended for the first section. Foundation paper piecing patterns are usually clearly labeled with letters and numbers. Start with A1, then add A2, then add A3, etc. This is a simple pattern where we will add all of the pieces to the final quilt block. Some patterns have A1, A2, etc. pieces as one section of the quilt block. Then you sew together more sections that would be labeled B1, B2, etc., and C1, C2, etc.
Pin or use a removable sewing glue stick to attach your first piece of fabric to the A1 area of the quilt block. The wrong side of the fabric should be against the wrong side of the paper. Make sure that you have at least 1/4-inch of fabric around all of the edges. We'll be trimming off any excess as we move around the wonky square quilt block. - Next, you'll want to fold back the paper on the line that is between A1 and A2. This will be our first stitching line. You'll want to fold the paper as precisely as possible, as this will be your guide for cutting your 1/4-inch seam allowances. The Add-a-quarter ruler is a great tool to have if you plan on doing a lot of foundation paper piecing. It gives a nice straight edge for folding, as well as a lipped edge for the 1/4-inch seam cutting line.
Using the tapered edge of the ruler along the stitching line, fold the paper back forming a nice creased line.
If you don't have an Add-a quarter ruler, any firm piece of paper like an index card or template plastic works, too. Here is an index card. - Remove whatever you used to make the nice crisp fold. Take the lipped edge of your Add-a-quarter ruler and place right along this new fold line. Using your rotary cutter, on a cutting mat, trim the excess fabric to 1/4-inch.
If you don't have an Add-a-quarter ruler, use your quilter's ruler. Line the 1/4-inch mark along the fold and cut using your rotary cutter and cutting mat. - Now we are ready to add the fabric for A2! Get a piece of fabric that is at least 1/2-inch larger in all directions than the section we will be covering with that fabric. With your paper folded back, line up the edges of the fabric, with right sides together. Hold this up to the light, or use a light box or other light source, and make sure that the piece of fabric is at least 1/2-inch larger than the lines for the A2 shape.
NOTE: it is important to do this with the paper folded back. If you lay it out with the paper flat, odd shapes (most FPP shapes aren't symmetrical on all sides) won't necessarily fit.
Before you start sewing, shorten your stitch length just a bit. The shorter stitch length will make it easier to remove the paper from your quilt block when you are finished sewing it together. Most people use between 1.2 and 1.5 for the stitch length for foundation paper piecing.
Once you know you have enough fabric to cover the space and the edges are aligned, fold the paper back flat. Take to your sewing machine and stitch along the line between A1 and A2.
NOTE: if you start and stop a few stitches before and after the line, your stitches will remain secure as you remove the paper when your quilt block is complete. - I like to leave my threads longer, again it makes it easier when you are removing the paper. If they are trimmed short now, they can pull out when you are removing the paper.
Turn your block over to the right side of the fabric. Finger press or use a pressing tool like a seam roller to lightly press this seam flat. Don't use your iron; vellum paper curls and then is hard to use. (Ask me how I know!) - Now, we are ready to stitch the A3 piece to A1 along the shared line on the pattern. Always look for the line for the next block (A3) and how it will be added to your growing quilt block. Sometimes the new piece is added to the piece you just sewed on, and sometimes it is somewhere else on the quilt block.
Turn your pattern back along the line between these two sections using your preferred method outlined above in step 6.
Using your ruler, trim that line to 1/4-inch.
Add fabric for A3, lining the edges, fold back the paper and sew along the line. - Now it is time to add A4 fabric. Find the line between A4 and your growing quilt block. This time it will be attached across two blocks. Fold along the line with your preferred method and trim to 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Sew along the line and finger press or use a pressing tool to flatten the seam. - Now your are ready for A5! Repeat the process of folding back the pattern, trimming the existing fabric to 1/4-inch seam allowance, line up the next fabric, check to make sure that it covers your shape with at least 1/2-inch extra around all sides, fold the paper back and stitch along the line. Press the seam flat.
- Continue with this process until all of the pieces are added to the section or block for your pattern.
TIP: With the sections on the outside edge of the block, make sure you have plenty of fabric to trim the block to its final size. If you have the extra 1/2-inch on all edges, you'll be fine. If it is a little skimpy, you might have to un-sew and replace with a larger piece of fabric. I like to go a bit bigger here, just to make sure! Un-sewing with the shortened stitch length is a challenge. 🙂 (Ask me how I know.)
Using your ruler, line the edge up on the outside line of the block and trim the final block with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. - Now you are ready to remove the paper! Start in the middle of your block. Sometimes with the vellum paper, you can fold along the seam line on any side of A1 and it might tear easily. Or, use a pair of scissors to carefully cut open the paper. Be sure NOT to cut through your fabric.
See how easy the vellum can tear against the seam line?
Here is the A1 section with the paper all removed. - Then, work around removing the paper from the inside to the outside.
- Here is beginning the next round of paper removal.
- Here is the block with all of the paper removed. See the few little bits stuck in some of the corners? Use a pair of needle nose tweezers to carefully remove those bits of paper. By stitching a few stitches more on either end and leaving your thread tails longer, the stitches don't pull out while working to remove the paper.
- Once all of the paper is removed, trim your threads and give your block a final press.
- The finished block on the right side, ready for a project!
Recommended Products
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- 100 Sheets Printable Translucent Vellum Paper, Tracing Paper for Invitation, Sketching, 93gsm (8.5 x 11 in)
- OHOCO Wool Pressing Mat for Quilting - 17" x 24" Extra Large Felt Ironing Pad 1/2" Thick, 100% New Zealand Wool for Ironing, Sewing, Cutting on Ironing Board, Tabletop, Dryer, Countertop
- Clover MCI-900 Mini Iron , White
- Bundle of Sewline Fabric Glue Pen(s) Blue, and Fabric Glue Pen Refill 2-Pack(s) Blue (1 Pen, 1 2-pack Refills)
- Dritz 61 Glass Head Pins, Extra Fine, 1-3/8-Inch (250-Count) , White
- Sizzix Curved Fine Tip Tweezers for Intricate Projects, Scrapbooking, Cardmaking, One Size, Multi Color, Multicolour
- CM Designs Ruler 12" Add-A-Quarter Pink CMDsnsRuler12AddAQuarterPink
- Alex Anderson's 4-in-1 Essential Sewing Tool: Includes Seam Ripper, Stiletto, Presser, and Turner
What is the history of foundation paper piecing?
Historians say that foundation paper piecing started in the 19th century when sewists would sew bits of fabric to paper to stabilize their patchwork piecing while they were hand stitching.
Why do people like foundation paper piecing?
With paper piecing, it is easier to sew very accurate seam lines. The quilt block is stabilized while you are sewing it, including bias seams!
Paper pieced patterns can be very intricate and complicated. A quilter follows the pattern and doesn’t need to cut small pieces of fabric accurately as long as the fabric is large enough cover the space.
What tools do I need for foundation paper piecing?
You’ll need a sewing machine that you can change the stitch length, paper for printing or designing the quilt block pattern, a ruler with a 1/4-inch mark OR an Add a Quarter ruler that has one side for folding your paper and one side for adding the 1/4-inch seam.
You’ll also need a rotary cutter or fabric scissors, paper scissors to cut the pattern sections, pins, iron and ironing surface (ironing board or wool pressing mat). If you are using a rotary cutter, you’ll need a cutting mat and quilter’s ruler.
Optional is a fabric glue pen to hold the fabrics together while sewing. Also, optional is a light box. A light box is helpful for lining up your fabric with the quilt block template – you can use a window, too. And, of course, you’ll need fabric!
Do I need to change my stitch length when I paper piece?
Yes, it is recommended to use a short stitch length when paper piecing.
This makes the quilt block seams stronger and perforates the paper more, making it easier to remove when the block is complete.
You should set your stitch length to 1.5 or to 18 to 20 stitches per inch.
What kind of paper can I use for foundation paper piecing?
You can use different types of papers for paper piecing.
There are special papers made specifically for paper piecing that are called quilt block foundation paper. The specialty papers are thinner and easier to see through and remove when the quilt block is complete.
Many quilters use plain printer paper, which is less expensive than the specialty papers, but harder to see through.
I find using vellum paper works great. It is a thin paper and fairly transparent so you can see your fabrics easier than plain paper, is a bit stiffer and thinner than printer paper so your folds are crisper and is much easier to tear away from the seam when your quilt block is complete.
Freezer paper is also sometimes used because you can press the fabric onto the paper and you don’t need to pin or glue the fabric for sewing. When a quilter uses freezer paper, they don’t sew through the paper. The paper is peeled off of the fabric and can be reused multiple times.
A similar (but different) method is freezer paper piecing. See our article on How to Foundation Paper Piece with Freezer Paper.
Some quilters also use parchment paper, tissue paper, tracing paper and newsprint! See which paper you prefer for designing or printing your pattern, stitching and then removing the paper.
Can I use printer paper for foundation piecing?
Yes. See the information above on papers for foundation piecing. I find that it works fine in a pinch, but I prefer using vellum paper or the freezer paper method.
Here is a comparison of a block made with printer paper and a block made with vellum paper. See how the vellum tears away nicely versus the printer paper? You also have a better view of your fabrics.


Here are printer paper and vellum paper after all of the paper is removed. See how the vellum paper has fewer little bits to remove with tweezers?


As you can see, printer paper works, but it is easier to work with vellum paper for foundation paper piecing.
What is the difference between paper piecing and foundation piecing?
Paper piecing uses paper! The paper can be used as a foundation for sewing the pieces together as we explain in this article, or paper (often freezer paper) can be used as a base pattern for adding seam allowances to each pattern piece as explained in our article How to Freezer Paper Piece.
How do you use a foundation paper piecing pattern?
Start by printing your pattern on your preferred paper.
Keep in mind that your printed pattern will be a reverse image of your finished quilt block.
Take a look at the pattern. You’ll see each block is numbered, and some blocks are grouped together. That is the order for sewing the quilt block. The first piece of fabric is numbered 1, the second piece is numbered 2 and so on. Once each group is put together, you then sew the groups together in the order noted on the pattern.
TIP: Use colored pencils, markers or crayons to mark the color for each piece. This makes it easier for when you cut the paper patterns to remember which color goes in which section.
For each section you fold the pattern back and line up the next fabric to be sewn. Pin or glue baste the fabrics, fold the paper back and stitch along the marked sewing line.
How do I cut the fabric for FPP?
My preferred method for cutting the fabric for FPP is to print one of the patterns on regular printer paper.
Mark each piece with the color of fabric you’ll be using. Then, cut out each section to use as a template for your cutting out your fabric.
Cut out each fabric with the associated pattern piece, making them at least 1/2-inch larger than the shape on all sides.
Other quilters find it easier to cut a piece of fabric the width of the folded fabric for each section of your block that is about 1 inch longer than the area you are you are covering. Example, if your shape is 2-inches long, cut a 3-inch strip of fabric.
Then, as you get to each section of the pattern, just snip a piece from the strip of fabric that is wide enough to cover your pattern piece. This works if you are on a roll and have a good idea of how much fabric you’ll need to cover each section of the shape.
You can cut all of the pieces of fabric out first or cut as you need them.
If you cut them before you get started, either pile them with your cut out section for the block, or take a small piece of painters tape or labels and label each piece.
How do I line up the fabric with the seam line?
You can hold the pattern with the fabric up to a window, or use a light box, to be able to see the fabric alignment, making sure it will cover the entire section.
This is where having a more translucent paper, like vellum, makes it easier to make sure your piece of fabric will cover the shape.
What foot should I use on my sewing machine to paper piece?
When sewing the fabric using the paper, it is best to use your regular sewing foot. When all of your blocks are complete and paper removed, use your 1/4-inch quilters foot to sew the blocks together.
How do you sew paper piecing blocks together?
When your blocks are all complete, trimmed and paper removed, use your quarter-inch foot on your sewing machine to sew the quilt blocks together.
How do you remove the paper from the back of a paper pieced quilt block?
To remove the paper from your quilt block, start with LAST fabric added and work your way to the first fabric added.
Tear the paper away gently from the stitching, so you don’t break the threads. Use a pair of pointed tweezers to get the difficult small pieces of paper out of your stitching.
How do you reduce bulk in paper piecing?
To reduce the bulk in your paper pieced quilt block, it is important to trim the seam lines before lining up the next fabric, making sure all excess fabrics are trimmed away.
Browse through more foundation paper piecing projects and inspiration on Create Whimsy. Check out our English Paper Piecing tutorials and articles.
Looking for inspiration and ideas? Check out our interview with Carol Doak, well known for her foundation paper piecing.







