You’ve finished your quilt top, quilted it and now ready to bind it. Learn how to join binding on a quilt with a diagonal seam that isn’t bulky with our step-by-step directions.

This is my favorite method to join binding.

Beginning to sew the binding to the quilt top

The basic steps to join the ends of binding on the quilt:

I start with a continuous length of binding fabric by sewing strips of fabric together to measure about 20 inches MORE than the perimeter of the quilt. You can make a scrappy binding by sewing different fabrics together. Sew them together at a 45-degree angle.
Start by leaving tails of about 8-10 inches at the beginning tail. Sew around the outer edge of the next three sides of the quilt aligning the raw edge of the binding to the raw edges of the quilt. Stop sewing about 8-10 inches from where you started. Leave an ending tail of binding about 8-10 inches long.
Next lay the bindings on top of each other.
Use a piece of scrap from the binding you are using and open it up, aligning the left edge with the bottom fabric edge.
Cut away the excess fabric on top along the right edge of the scrap of binding.
Draw a diagonal stitching line with a removable fabric marker, such as a Frixion pen.
Stitch along this line.
Trim seam allowance and press seam open
Sew the opening closed. And, you’ve joined the bindings on your quilt!
Finish sewing the binding that has been joined to your quilt. Now your binding is sewn to the outside edge around the perimeter of your quilt.
Turn the binding to the back of the quilt sandwich and sew. I like to hand stitch the binding to the back. Fold your mitered corners as you sew the quilt binding to the back. Learn all about mitered corners.
Enjoy your finished quilt!

One joined binding

How to Join Binding on a Quilt

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Difficulty: Beginner

Learn how to join the two ends of your binding when finishing your quilt with our step-by-step tutorial.

Materials

Quilt with binding sewn around three sides

Tools

Sewing machine, OPTIONAL Walking foot
Iron
Pressing surface
Rotary cutter
Cutting mat
Quilters 6-inch square ruler
Removable fabric marker, I used a Frixion pen

Instructions

Start with a quilt where you've attached the binding with the right sides together to three sides of the quilt. Learn more in our article on how to bind a quilt and how to miter corners on a quilt.

You're on the fourth side with both ends of the quilt binding. Now what?

You want to make sure you have at least 8-10 inches open to manipulate the binding.
Trim the bottom binding so that there is at least 8-inches not sewn to the quilt top. Lay the other side of the binding on top along the raw edge of the quilt.
Take a scrap of your binding and open it up. Line up the left side of the scrap with the end of the lower binding.
Trim the top binding with the right side of the scrap.
Fold back the top binding. With the lower binding, open it up and fold from the edge down forming a 45-degree angle.
Open up the top binding and align the edges.
Pin these right sides together. They aren't flat because we've turned the bottom binding at a right angle.

Mark the diagonal line with a removable marker.
Go to your sewing machine and stitch along this marked line.
Trim away the corners leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Press this seam open. You can press it with your iron or finger-press it open. You need to fold up the quilt to get in there to press it open.
Fold the binding in half and open your quilt. Look at how the binding lays nice and flat along the straight edge!
To finish, sew the opening on the side of the quilt with the joined binding.

Turn the folded edge of your binding to the back of the quilt. Form your mitered corners. I like to hand stitch the binding in place on the back of quilt.

Notes

NOTE: I find it easier to sew the binding to the quilt with a walking foot.

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Why is a diagonal seam on the binding good for a quilt?

Using a diagonal seam, the bulk of the seam allowance is distributed across a section of a quilt. If you used a straight seam, all of the seam allowances are in one spot creating bulk along the edge of your quilt.

What’s the best way to make sure the binding join is neat and flat?

Just like with every quilting projects, it’s all about cutting and sewing precisely. I find that I need to gently pull on the top fabric before cutting it. This takes the ease in just laying the fabric away. When you sew, the fabric will lie flatter.

Do I join bias binding the same way as straight of grain binding?

Yes! The process is the same. The diagonal binding seam creates a gradual transition so that the seam blends seamlessly into the rest of the binding.

Do I miter the corners before of after joining the binding?

Sew three sides and have all four corners mitered before joining the binding.

What other ways can I join the binding?

Some quilters use a straight seam. The straight seam can be bulky on the edge of your quilt.

Others fold the starting edge back about 1/4-inch and then slip the joining end inside the start. Again, this can be bulky on the edge of your quilt.

Another way to join the binding is to cut the first edge at a 45-degree angle. Fold in 1/4-inch on that edge. Slip the joining end inside this angled edge of the binding. This is a compromise of the methods, reducing some of the bulk.

There are a lot of different ways to finish the binding. The binding process above is my personal preference for most projects, including pot holders and mini quilts.

How do YOU join your binding edges?

Check out our articles on How to Miter Corners on a Quilt and How to Bind a Quilt.