Once you learn how to sew mitered corners on a quilt you’ll wonder why it took you so long! They are super easy – it’s all about folding the fabric and stitching in the right place. It may take a few tries to get it, and that’s okay! Mitering is a great way to finish the corners of your quilt.
What are the basic steps to sew mitered a corner on a quilt?
First, sew the binding close to the corner of the quilt. See tips below.
Then, fold the binding at a 45-degree angle from the corner.
Next, fold the binding back down along the next side, aligning it with the edge of the quilt.
Begin sewing this side starting after the fold from the binding.
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How to Make a Mitered Corner on a Quilt
Learn how to make a mitered corner for your quilt binding with these step-by-step directions.
Mitered corners add a nice clean finish to your quilts. Have fun choosing fabrics that either blend with your quilt or pick a fabric that pops as a frame for your quilt.
Here are the step-by-step instructions on how to make a mitered corner with the binding on your quilt.
Materials
- Binding ready to sew on a quilt
- Quilt sandwich ready for binding
- Quilt top
- Thread for sewing
Tools
- Sewing machine
- OPTIONAL: Walking foot for your sewing machine
- Iron
- Pressing surface or ironing board
Instructions
- Have your quilt all quilted and your binding made. See our overview article on binding a quilt.
Begin to sew your binding strip on your quilt with the right sides together, aligning the raw edges. I use 1/4-inch seam allowances. You'll sew the binding to the front of the quilt.
I like to use my walking foot for my sewing machine.
- Sew until you get close to the first corner. You want to stop sewing about (1) stitch before you get to the seam allowance. This quilt will have a 1/2-inch seam allowance. I use the guides on my presser foot to show me when I'm getting close to the corner. Measure from your needle to the edge of the quilt.
- Now we are ready for the next side of the quilt. Take your quilt and turn it 90-degrees. Fold your binding so that it has a diagonal fold from the seam you just stitched, to the corner of the quilt. In other words, flip the binding up so that it forms a diagonal from your previous stitching line, to the corner.
- Next, carefully fold the binding back down onto the quilt forming a fold on the top edge of the quilt. Line the raw edge of the biding with the edge of the quilt top.
- Begin sewing again about 1 stitch beyond the 1/2-inch mark. Secure or backstitch when you begin. We give this small bit to both sides to make sure we don't capture any of the folded fabric in the seams.
- Continue sewing the binding along the length of the quilt side. Follow the same directions for the other quilt corners.
Turn the folded edge of the binding to the back side of your quilt so that the folded edge covers the stitch line. The binding now covers the raw edge of the quilt. Fold the fabric to form the mitered corners.
- Stitch the binding to the back of the quilt and secure the mitered corners.
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How can I use different widths of binding to make mitered corners?
Where you stop and start stitching in the corner of the quilt depends on the size of your binding. I like a finished 1/4-inch binding for small quilts and a 1/2-inch finished binding for larger quilts.
For a finished 1/4-inch binding, that means that 1/4-inch of fabric shows on the right side of your quilt. I cut the binding into 2-inch strips and sew them together for one long strip of fabric. You’ll stop stitching one stitch before 1/4-inch from the next edge of the quilt, and start stitching after you turn the corner at one stitch after the 1/4-inch from the prior edge of the quilt. Don’t worry, step-by-step with photos is below!
For a finished 1/2-inch binding, that means 1/2-inch of fabric shows in the right side of your quilt. I cut the binding in 3-1/2 inch strips. You’ll stop stitching one stitch before 1/2-inch from the next edge of the quilt, and start stitching after you turn the corner at one stitch after the 1/2-inch from the prior edge of the quilt.
If you like wider binding, follow the same rule of thumb. Stop and start just a hair before / after the same width as your finished binding.
What’s the secret to getting sharp mitered corners?
The big secret to many quilting techniques is pressing the fabric. With a mitered corner, you want to fold the fabrics carefully, and then after sewing the binding, press well.
How can I make a mitered corner with thick or bulky fabrics?
Thick and bulky fabrics aren’t as easy to work with as quilting cottons to make a mitered corner.
Grade your seam allowances and trim your corner fabrics.
Grading seam allowances means to trim the fabrics in the seam allowance at different widths.
Example: If you have a 1/2-inch seam allowance, trim one fabric at 3/8-inch, another fabric at 1/4-inch and leave one at 1/2-inch. Doing this will reduce the bulk in your seam.
Can I use bias binding to miter corners?
Yes. For straight sides on a quilt, I prefer using binding strips that are straight-of-grain.
Straight of grain binding doesn’t stretch.
Learn more about bias in our article How to Make Bias Strips. Bias binding works well if you have curves or irregular shapes.
Tips for mitering corners
Pay close attention to where you stop sewing when you get close to a corner, and again where you begin sewing on the next side. Once you’ve mastered that, you’ve got it!
I like to start with a nice straight and clean edge so it is easy to keep my binding straight. I cut away the excess fabric and excess batting before sewing on the binding.
Read our article on how to join bindings on a quilt that shows you how to sew together the binding ends.
Learn more on how to bind a quilt and our article on how to join bindings to finish a quilt.
