Pintucks are so easy to make and add great embellishments to garments. There are several ways to make pin tucks.
Here, we’ll show you a few different methods in this article: How to use a pin tuck presser foot and a twin needle, how to make curvy pin tucks and how to make pin tucks with a folded edge.
If this is a new technique for you, start by taking a scrap of fabric and trying out these different ways of making pintucks to see which one you prefer. Pintucks can make a simple garment something special!
Here is how you do pin tucks:

How to Sew Pintucks Tutorial
Learn how to make pintucks with this step-by-step tutorial.
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Materials
- Fabric for pintucking
- Thread for pintucks, can be matching or contrasting
Tools
- Sewing machine
- Pintuck presser foot, if available
- Topstitch or edgestitch foot
- Iron
- Pressing surface
- Optional: Removable fabric marker or your favorite marking tool
- Optional: Quilters ruler
Instructions
First I'll show you how to make pintucks with the presser foot that comes with your sewing machine. It's important to have the right size twin needle for the pintuck foot.
Bernina pintuck presser feet are numbers 30, 31, 32 and 33. This is a groove foot. In this pintuck tutorial, I'm using the #30 foot and the 4mm twin needle.
TIP: When threading the two threads, place one thread on each side of the tension discs.
TIP: Pintucks are best on light weight fabrics. I've used cottons, linens and light weight wools.
- Start by changing your needle to the appropriate twin needle. Change your presser foot to a pintuck presser foot. I'm using the #30 foot and a 4mm twin needle.
- Now it is time to thread your machine. I like to use the same color thread in both top threads and in the bobbin thread. You'll be using two spools of thread.
- When you are threading your machine, put one thread on each side of the tension disk. This helps make sure the threads don't get twisted while sewing.
- Thread the needles. Unfortunately your automatic needle threader doesn't stitch to thread each needle, you'll need to thread them the old fashioned way - by hand.
- Okay. We are ready to make pintucks. Place your fabric under your needle and just sew. It automagically make the pintucks!
NOTE: Always test first on a scrap of your fabric. If it's not drawing up the tuck correctly, check your threading and make sure you have the right needle size for your presser foot.
- If you are making several tucks, you can either mark your fabric with a removeable fabric marker, like a Frixion pen, or just use your presser foot width for the distance between your tucks. For this sample, I used the width of the presser foot.
- Here is the finished sample for the straight pintuck using the presser foot as the width between the tucks.
It's fun and easy to make curvy pintucks using your pintuck presser foot. Set up your machine and thread as outlined in steps 1-4 above.
- To make a curvy pintuck, start sewing like we did before. This time, start moving your fabric around. (NEED PICTURE)
- Here is a finished sample of curvy pintucks.
Don't have a special presser foot to make pintucks on your machine? No worries! With this method, you use an edge stitch or topstitch presser foot. If you don't have one of those, you can use a piece of painters tape to mark the sewing width, or the edge of your all-purpose presser foot.
- Here is how to use an edge or topstitch foot. Put your special foot on your sewing machine. Use a single needle for this method.
Prepare your fabric by marking lines for your pintucks with a removeable fabric marker. NOTE: Always test your marker on a scrap of fabric before marking your fabric. - Fold your fabric right sides together along the drawn line. If you are using a heat-sensitive fabric marker like a Frixion pen, don't press the fold - it will disappear from your fabric! 🙂 Using the edge of your foot or tape on your machine, sew a narrow straight line along the folded edge of the fabric with a straight stitch.
- Here is the sewing in progress for the first tuck using this method.
- On this sample, I didn't mark the lines. I wanted random tucks at different angles. Here is the sample in progress.
- Here is the finished sample of making pin tucks without a pintuck presser foot.
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What is a pintuck?
A pin tuck is a small fold of fabric that is stitched either by hand or by machine. It is primarily used for decorative purposes. Pin tucks add texture and design to fabric. Most commonly used in garment sewing, pin tucks are also used in home decorator projects and textile art.
What are pin tucks used for?
Pin tucks are primarily used as embellishments on fabric, creating texture. The small pleats are sewn by hand or machine. Use matching or contrasting thread color for different looks. The tucks create small ridges on the fabric.
Pintucks were used in heirloom garments in the 19th century. You’ll find them on many christening gowns. They are now used in many heirloom sewing projects, along with French seams.
What is the difference between a pleat and a tuck?
A pin tuck is a very small pleat that is sewn the length of the tuck. Generally a pin tuck is 1-2 mm wide. With a pin tuck, the small pleat is sewn and secured for the entire length of the pleat.
A pleat is a larger tuck that is generally sewn only partway down so that the fabric is fitted where the plate is sewn and then can flow.
How can I incorporate pintucks in a garment?
In a creative clothing class I took, we were given a challenge to make a garment with texture. I decided it was time to try that little foot for my Bernina that makes pin tucks to attempt some curvy pin tucks! (If you have a Bernina, feet #30, 31, 32, 33 all make pin tucks.)
I started by making a bigger piece of fabric with lots of curvy pin tucks in a very light weight woven wool, perfect for a light weight jacket on cooler days. To make the pin tuck piece of fabric, just put the pin tuck foot on your machine according to the directions of your sewing machine manufacturer. Replace your needle with a twin needle (sometimes referred to as a double needle) and start stitching slightly curvy lines. If you try to make too big of a curve, you’ll get pleats in the pin tuck, so make the curves gentle.
Here is the finished jacket with curvy pintuck fabric inserts.




Tips and ideas for making and using pintucks
- Pintuck details are great for adding to a bodice or cuffs on a dress or jacket.
- Sew the pintucks in parallel lines close together to create an interesting look and texture in your fabric. When doing this, sew one line one way, turn your fabric and sew the next the opposite direction for a beautiful design detail.
- I don’t recommend pintucks on knit fabrics. They stretch too much. Work the pintucks from the right side of the fabric. For straight pintucks, try to sew on straight grain or cross-grain of the fabric. If you want an interesting effect, sew the pintucks in the bias.
- Sew a piece of fabric with pintucks before cutting out the garment piece. Pintucks shrink the fabric dimensions. And, then you can center the pattern piece on the pre-pintucked fabric.
- Sew the pintucks with a different color thread to make a decorative element on your fabric.
Have fun adding pintucks to your next sewing project!
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